Mary Phelps Jacob aka Caresse Crosby


Although women have had various undergarments to support their breasts for thousands of years, the French may have invented the prototype of the modern bra by the turn of the 20th century. Modestly called a "soutien gorge" literally "neck supporter," the ancestress of the modern bra, however, was first patented in 1914 by a woman, Mary Phelps Jacob, and American socialiate. Jacob, who later changed her name to Caresse Crosby found that no manufacturer was interested in her invention. She sold her company to Warners for a mere $1,500. Several other women are also associated with the invention of the bra: Hermione Cardolle, a French woman sold a protype of the bra in her shop in Paris, and Maria Tucek patented a device with pockets for the breasts in 1893. It fell upon the inventiveness of another woman, Ida Rosenthal, to design bras according to cup sizes. Prototypes of specialized bras such as nursing bras with removal front panels and pockets for insertion of pads to absorb leakage would be invented from the 1930s on. In 1977, two women, Hinda Miller and Lisa Lindahl would invent the sports bra they named the "Jogbra."


Mary Phelps Jacob's Patent


Vesta Roman Goddess of the Hearth

References:


Patently Female by Ethlie Ann Vare and Greg Ptacek (John Wiley, 2002) p. 134-139.
The Passionate Years by Caresse Crosby (Ecco Press).

Web Sites

Caresse Crosby and the Brassiere
Bras and Girdles
Brassiere
Mary Phelps Jacob Biography
Brief Bra History
Minimizing Bounce